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The 'Collectors' helmet is about 7/8 scale. Although, if you find the difference is acceptable, it is a decent choice for the helmet.
There are several online dealers who carry the standard and deluxe edition helmets.
Your local costume shop should also prove to be a be a good source for the standard edition helmet.
Be sure that you have good reference pictures.
Helmet Reference Pics.
One method of performing this is to use a hairdryer, on a hot setting, to soften the vinyl.
Once it is soft, you will be able to reform the shape of the helmet.
While the helmet is still soft, reinforce the new shape by lining the inside with some heavy 12 guage wire. If you do not brace the helmet, it will most likely retain it's 'memory' and slowly reform to it's original shape.
After the helmet cools, the wire may be left in to retain it's new shape.
- Rangefinder replacement (optional)
Then widen the viewing area, to the sides, about an inch each way. You should now be able to see the antenna in the lower 'scanner mode', through the widened area.
Do not remove any of the red portion of the helmet.
Finish by sanding the cut edges with 200 grit sandpaper.
You may want to keep these removed pieces as a future template when cutting your new visor.
Helmet with removed visor.
Next, prepare the helmet for painting.
Begin by sanding the Entire helmet with 200 grit sandpaper, removing as much paint as you can.
Next, putty the imperfections and spray it with a primer, such as Krylon sandable primer. Check the results, and re-putty and prime as needed. Apply at least two coats, allowing the primer to fully dry between each coat. Lightly sand the top primer coat , to create a 'distressed' surface on the helmet. This will allow the base coat of paint to better adhere.
Now it's time to paint the helmet.
Because of the limited color choice of spray paints, custom mixed paints are recomended. Although it has been proven that the helmet may be done totally from regular spraypaints, such as Rustoleum and Krylon brand spray paints.
With minimal effort you can achieve a great finish right out of a can.
There is one important factor to remember, while painting the inexpensive viynl helmets, with regular spray can paint.
Use a base primer coat. Preferably with a laquer based primer. Most enamel based paints have trouble adhearing directly to vinyl. Do not put the main color coat (especialy enamel based) directly over the viynl helmet! If you do the paint may not be durable and could remain tacky Forever. Having to strip the paint, to do again, may ruin your helmet in the process. The primer will act as a barrier between the viynl and color spraypaint. You should be able to use any brand of spray primer. Also be sure to apply several coats of primer. Test the primer first on the inside of your helmet in a small spot to see if it will fully dry.
Helmet Colors:
1.)Moss green for the top of the helmet and lower cheeks
2.)Forest Green (Satin Finish) ORSpruce Green (Satin Finish) -upper cheeks and back.
Additionally, for the upper cheeks and back section, good results have been reported by first spraying the area with Rust-oleum Dark Hunter Green Enamel. Then, a light coat of Rust-oleum Camouflage Deep Forest Green.
The ESB main helmet is like a moss green color, almost a light and dark blue.
The ROTJ helmet main green color is the sage/dark green and is overall darker then the ESB. 3.)Krylon Ruddy Red / Rusty Red(Satin Finish) -Around T-lens visor.
The ROTJ visor is not as beat up as the ESB.
Also, the ESB T-visor area is a darker red than the ROTJ and pre-production.
4.)Catterpiller Yellow(Satin Finish)-Square marks on left side of the helmet.
The pre-production helmet used red blocks instead of the yellow.
5.) Testors Silver (chrome) model car paint -dents,dings and scratches
6.) You'll also need some clear spray(either flat or semi-gloss) to spray over some of the colors.
Be cautious when using different brands of paint for the colors. Some brands may lift the underneath paint.
Remember that the helmet is a slightly differnt color then the armor and has a flat finish.
At this point, the painting methods vary.
These painting techniques will apply to all the armor including, the kneepads, gauntlets and jetpack.
Three different painting methods will be discussed below.
#1 First Method:
This is a slightly complex, but extremely nice looking method, using a peel off masking material.
Also, use a generous amount of liquid mask in each selected location. Larger amounts of liquid mask will allow easier removal after layers of paint have been applied. You may want to do a practice test on some scrap plastic. ( This will allow you to get an idea of how the process will work.)
Base coat the WHOLE thing by Spraying with Testors Silver (chrome) model car paint. It is recomended use an airbrush for this Testors produces an inexpensive, pressurized propellant can and airbrush system, located at The Testors Website with easy to follow directions. If you choose not to use an airbrush, it is suggested to use chrome bumper paint from an auto supply shop. Cover the helmet completely. 2 coats at least, with your selected metallic color.
Be sure to let the paint dry several days before applying the masking material. Not allowing the paint to fully dry may result in damage to the previous layer of paint.
Apply a liquid mask randomly to all areas that you wish to remain silver.
You should apply the liquid mask in patterns and shapes that will look natural and not just painted on the top of your main color. Then let the masking material completly dry.
The type of liquid mask that is recomended is called AMBROID EZ MASK . This is a light blue
liquid mask that turns to clear blue rubbery substance, when dry.
It is applied with a brush and removed by peeling it off with tweezers. You can find it (or an equivelent) at most hobby shops or this site Happy Hobby will have it. Listed under Tool's & Glues.
Another option for masking material is to use rubber cement, for your masking substance.
If you decide to use rubber cement, most art supply stores sell a 'Rubber Cement Eraser'. This is a yellow 2 in. x 2 in. rubber square used for removing rubber cement. This will allow easy removal of the dried cement.
Please note that no masking will be removed untill after the next layers of paint applied and fully dry.
This next step is
For chest, shoulder, back and cod pieces only.
After liquid has dried, spray a coat of Catterpiller Yellow or Tan paint over and around
the liquid masked areas. Be sure to look at Boba Fett reference pics. You will notice that almost all battle scars on the chest and cod armor are surrounded by a yellow type color around the silver and before the green color begins.
When the yellow is dry, peel off the masking material. If you accidentally pull off some paint while removing the masking,do not worry. If the paint is not removed all the way to the original piece, it just may enhance the battle damage look.
At this point allow all paint to completely dry.
Then reaply the Liquid mask over the silver and Yellowish color and let dry.
Now paint your main green color Let dry, then peel off the masking material.
As stated before, you may pull off some of the paint with the masking. Rember, this should not be much
of a problem as it may enhance the damage effect.
Now let the helmet /armor dry for a few days.
Before moving on to the final steps, you must look at your pieces and decide if you would like more scarring damage.
If so, paint the metallic color on top of main color. Just be sure to do so sparingly.
The next step is to weather your finished pieces.
This can be done using an airbrush, spray paint, washes, charcoal, or chalk powder.
Whatever you prefer to make it look dirty.
Finish by spraying the whole thing with a dullcoat (flat clear paint) Be sure to apply this in many very light coats.
This will not only dull the body color down, it will also bond the material you used to dirty it up.
This process requires the most work of the three but, the results will be worth the work involved.
#2 A Less Complex, Alternative Painting Method
involves the use of a masking material, available from art supply shops, called 'frisket'.
The first step is to prep and paint the helmet using your selected silver color.
When the silver color is completely dry, get some frisket and trace random damage spots.
Make them jagged and irregular in shape along with many different sizes. Make more than you will use.
The more you make, the eaiser it will be to fit the damage to the selected area.
Cut out the damage spots and put them on the helmet anyway you like.
When using this same method for painting the armor,
the next step is to paint the entire armor pieces with yellow. Use the same color as the shoulders.
After you have painted enough coats and are satisfied, trace some larger marks to fit over some of the smaller ones.
By placing a larger 'wound' over a smaller one, the multi layer effect is created.
When you paint the final green color, and remove the frisket, some scratches will be chrome,surrounded by yellow, surrounded by green.
Because the yellow scarring is not found on the helmet,
this step is unnecessary for the helmet.
Next step is to apply your green color. Once you have applied the green, and it has dried, remove the frisket carefully. Make sure the paint is completely dry. Otherwise you will risk tearing the paint.
At this point you may want to use an exacto knife to rough up the edges of the damage. Scratch down to the yellow and chrome. Use your own judgment to create the look you want.
Finish by dry brushing a mixture of black and brown into all of the damage, and make streaks around the visor area.
Make it as dirty and worn looking as you like. Remember to weather the armor in the same manor.
#3 An even less involved method is sponge painting
When using a sponge to brush the paint on, custom mixing the colors by hand adds to authenticity. Mix a touch of black in with the spruce green to get a nice color. Mix more for the cheek area. The details should turn out very well.
First step is to mask off the selected areas ,and using the final green colors ( as above), paint according to reference. NextNext, sponge paint the weathering details onto the helmet. Now, sponge paint the same color you started with on top of what's already there.
For example, if the top of the helmet is painted spruce green, put the same color green on the sponge and dab it over the top again.
By doing this you will achieve a nice multi layer effect. This technique may also be used for the armor. Finish by using Silver model paint for all the dings and scratches.
Painting the helmet rectangles.
There are 14 rectangles although one of them is completely chipped away to bare metal. A couple of others are mostly gone as well.
In the preproduction and ROTJ helmet pics, Fett had red/maroon marks on the helmet. In ESB he had yellow marks.
The following info isn't 'official' but, most suggest that the ideal size of the 14 yellow rectangles is( 7/8' x 5/16' each, with about 1/4' spacing in between.)The rear edge of the the fourth rectangle should roughly be in line with the end of the finished T-visor area. Additionally, the middle of the 7th block should be centered just slightly behind the center line, of the left side ear piece.
The 14 masked rectangles.